The Cyanotype Process is a alternative photography technique that I learned about in College that I was so fascinated with that I decided to buy the chemicals myself and continue to do this technique on my own. What is so great about this process is that it is very simple to complete, generally low risk, and the only developer you will need is a clean water source.
Things you will need:
-8g Potassium Ferricyanide
-20g Ammonium Citrate
-Hydrogen Peroxide (optional)
-Some medium to coat (paper, denim, fabric, etc.)
-A contact Frame or Picture Frame
-A foam brush or something similar(No copper ferrules)
-Measuring Devices
The following steps should be done in a dark area without any UV light sources nearby. Those include Fluorescent, Mercury Vapor, or Metal Halide bulbs. The cyanotype process is known as a "Developing Out Process," which means that the developing of the photographs happens outside of the darkroom in most cases with the suns rays. That being said, you could use a light that throws a lot of UV light such as a Metal Halide bulb, and you can create adequately exposed cyanotypes in about 5-10 minutes depending on how dense your negative is.
So lets begin.
1. The first thing you will need to do is mix up the two solutions in seperate brown glass bottles. Begin by mixing 8 grams of Potassium Ferricyanide and dissolve it in 100ml of water. Label this Solution I.
2. Next you will need to mix the 20g Ammonium Citrate and dissolve this solution in 100ml of water. This will become Solution II. These chemicals will store for a very long time when stored separately but I would highly suggest that you only mix up enough to complete the project you are working on. I have been successful in developing prints many weeks after the paper was coated but it becomes more difficult to tell when your image is thoroughly exposed.
3. Mix equal parts of Solution I and II together in a glass beaker, and using a paintbrush WITHOUT a metal ferrules, begin to coat your medium with the chemistry. I found that a disposable foam brush works extremely well and is how I coated all the cyanotypes you see above and below.
4. The solution should be a lime color green and will dry darker.
5. Once the chemistry is dry it is time to select a negative and place it face up on your coated medium. Carefully place the negative and paper in a contact frame (picture frame) and place it in the sun.
6. Check periodically throughout the exposure time and you will notice the lime green color will darken to a dark forest green. Chances are that your print will be ready to develop.
7. To develop your print, take it from the frame and slide it into a pool of water agitating slowly to remove any unexposed chemistry from the print. Now here is where the magic really happens. Remember when I mentioned that Hydrogen peroxide was optional? Well if you fill another tray of water and add a dash of hydrogen peroxide, your print will become a richer, darker blue giving your print just that extra depth. Now this step is optional as I said, if you do not do this once you are sure that any unexposed chemistry has been removed from print, you can proceed to let it dry.
8. Congratulations, you have just completed your very first Cyanotype!
For more information please visit: http://www.alternativephotography.com
or if you have any further questions, drop me a message at johnmichaelmcgeen@gmail.com
Comments
Post a Comment